Wild wool: knitting & crochet

Mini Doctor Whos

Three Doctors, Tardis, Weeping Angel, DalekLike all good nerds I was raised on Doctor Who and have enough Doctor-obsessed friends that it was inevitable for me to eventually require Doctor Who crochet patterns…

I’m also a huge fan of Ravelry.com – if you’re into anything knit or crochet, it’s a great place to collect ideas, develop a library of patterns and connect with other craft-mad humans.

These two loves came together when Ravelry first introduced me to Pixelated Mushroom – blog of Nyss Parkes – who (among other things) creates great patterns, and shares some of them free of charge.
Perhaps my favourites of hers is a collection of  Mini Doctor Who patterns, including 11 different Doctors.  She has also provided a free TARDIS pattern, just big enough to fit the mini doctors.

They’re simple to follow, and I’ve also used them as the basis for many other amigurumis, such as Sherlock, and Merlin (which I’ll post here later).

Here are a couple of the Doctors I’ve done for friends:

Crocheted David Tennant Doctor Who

David Tennant

Crocheted Matt Smith Doctor Who

Matt Smith

Crocheted Tom Baker Doctor Who

Tom Baker

Crocheted Jon Pertwee Doctor Who

Jon Pertwee

  • Jon Pertwee and David Tennant’s hair were done with special wool.  You can find some of my hair tips here.
  • For the TARDIS in the picture above, I used a pattern purchased from SarasCrochetCouture Etsy store.  It was a little larger and little more robust than the Pixelated Mushroom free pattern, and was exactly what I needed for that project. (Although I have used the PM free pattern several times as well – she even has a Christmas ornament version.)
  • Ravelry also has a free Weeping Angel pattern by Shirley MacDonald, and a Dalek Egg Cosy by Ellie Skene, which are both also included the picture at the top of this post.

These patterns and other Dr Who crochet craziness can also be found in this post from mooglyblog.com, and there are many, many more in Ravelry’s libraries.

Happy wool-based nerding!

Creating the right do for your doll

Fluffy-haired David Tennant

Fluffy-haired David Tennant

I’ve found that when making dolls, it’s the hair really sells it.  Many patterns will include instructions for hair, and if you like the look of the pictures that come with them, just follow those.

But there are a couple of tricks I’ve learnt that help me when I’m creating my own amigurumi from scratch, or adapting others.

A wig cap

You can crochet an entire head of hair using this method.  You can also create a  ‘wig cap’ as the base for a more complex hair style where you want something to attach hair to, or  just to keep the head colour from showing through a more sparse wig.

If your doll/amigurumi pattern starts at the head, just follow that pattern in the hair colour.  If the pattern starts to decrease and you haven’t got the coverage you need just keep crocheting, either without decreasing, or decreasing a row later to keep it a little bigger than the head.

If your pattern doesn’t start from the head, I’ve found the easiest way is to crochet as if you were creating a hat:
Row 1: crochet 6 single crochets (SC) in a magic circle / magic ring
Row 2: do 2 SCs in each stitch (12 stitches)
Row 3: [2 SCs in first stitch, 1 in next] repeat to end (18 stitches)
Row 4: [2 SCs in first stitch, 1 in each of the next 2] repeat to end (24 stitches)
…continue adding to the pattern (2 in first then 1 in next 3, 2 in first then 1 in next 4, etc) until your wig cap is as wide as the head (you might only need the three rows).
Then do 1 SC in each stitch until  you need to start decreasing (if you need to start decreasing).

After each row, try it on to see how it fits.  Snug is good: too tight will shrink the head and make it look weird; too loose and it won’t attach well, or will make the head look too big…
When you’re happy with the size, finish off and attach it to the head (or add something else to it first if you wish – see below).

Hair loops

larks head knotYou can add hair to the wig cap by tying individual ‘hairs’ to it.  I find the best method is to fold the thread in half then loop it through to make a “lark’s head” or “cow hitch” knot.  This works well with normal wool (if you want curly hair, you can unwind the strands apart once tied in).  You can also use textured or feathered yarn as well (see below).
I used this for the hair at the front for Listies performer Matt:
Matt from the Listies 

 

Fluffy hair

fluffy and feathered yarn for doll hairThe trick with creating “real” hair you can cut into a style is to use a feathered wool.
It can be hard to work with if you crochet it (e.g. creating a wig cap as above), but is well worth the effort.  You can also just sew it straight into a doll’s head.   This is where the wig cap can be really helpful – it has already laid down a block of colour, so you can just sew it in rows where you need to and there won’t be obvious gaps.

Once it’s on the head (however you get it there), you’ll want to brush it out (with a doll’s or pet brush) to get all the threads that are tucked under. Then give it a hair cut!   This is the nerve-wracking bit – if you cut it wrong, you have to start the hair – or worse, the doll – from scratch.

Merlin hair cut         Richard's hair cut

If it’s a gift, make sure you continue to brush the hair / play with it for a day or so to get all those extra long bits that could be still tucked under the threads.  And / or you could also warn the recipient that they may need to return for a hair cut.
richard after brush

Hair styling

Richard with crazy hair

not a great look…

Richard from the Listies has a very smooth hair style and after a couple of months on the road, woolly Rich was looking a bit the worse for wear…
This was when I discovered the magic of fabric glue as mousse / gel.
I applied it with a doll’s brush (so it didn’t just glob all over the place) and made sure he wasn’t lying on it as the glue set, to ensure the style wasn’t mashed.
I now use this for most hair that needs to maintain a certain style.  The one place I tend to avoid it is in toys for babies, as they’re likely to sucked on the head… I’ve not yet found a “safe-to-eat” fabric glue…

 

 

Do you have any great doll hair tips worth sharing?

Firefighting Koala costume (of course)

What Christmas present to get for a pregnant emergency services worker?
“A home-made costume to dress her newborn as the fire service mascot” may have been too obvious a choice for most people, but it was what I decided to go with…

Koala Ear Hat

I had always been a knitter.  Several years ago I went to the effort of completely inventing/adapting a pattern for a friend’s David Tenant Dr Who – despite having seen several great looking crochet patterns around – because I was sure learning to crochet would be so much harder.   But in searching for a koala-ish hat, all of the patterns that came up were crochet.  It seemed it was time to trade needles for hook and take a deep breath…

Little Baby Bear (or Koala) HatThe fabulously simple and easy Little Bear Baby Hat Pattern was designed by Inkie Goijer, who has been kind enough to share it under a Creative Commons License. (The actual Non-Commercial Creative Commons License is in Dutch because it was issued in the Netherlands, but trusty Google will help you find similar versions in English if you want to check what you’re allowed to do with it.)

Best of all, I found this step-by-step video which not only shows exactly what you need to do, it introduced me to the wonderful concept of the magic ring.  In fact – being pretty much brand new to crocheting – it taught me crocheting basics: the terminology, the basic stitches, and how things were supposed to look.  I am a huge fan of Google and Youtube as teachers  (I believe that you can teach yourself almost anything* with enough Googling), but anyone with a computer and working internet can upload to Youtube: instruction videos are not created equal, as I very quickly found out.  This one, though, is an excellent video… Even if I did have to keep pausing to keep up at my newbie speed.

*apparently you shouldn’t try to teach yourself brain surgery or munitions disposal through Google – even its almighty reach has limits.

I’ve since made this hat several times more, and the one change I make is that I prefer to do things as a spiral instead of in rows – I don’t add the “joining slip stitch” at the end and the “chain 1” at the beginning of each row, I just keep going.  It makes it smoother (because there’s no seam), but it is less neat if you want to add the coloured line along the bottom.  You do need a stitch marker to keep track of where the new row starts, but a something as simple as a paperclip hooked into the first stitch works perfectly well. (A good explanation of the differences/advantages/disadvantages of spiralling vs. joining can be found here.)

 Firefighter Jacket

Country Fire Service jacket (back)

CFS jacket (back)

Country Fire Service jacket (front)

CFS jacket (front)

 

I can’t find the exact pattern I used for the basic yellow jacket (without lettering). I can tell you it was really simple and I found it on Ravelry, or adapted it from something I found there. If you haven’t come across Ravelry before, it is a magical world of patterns and shared projects, and they will not in any way spam you once you’ve signed up. Seriously, head over and create an account now. I’ll wait.

pattern grid for CFS Jacket pattern design

pattern grid

The red lettering and logo weren’t actually as difficult as they might look because the body of the jacket was essentially a square.  I made a grid (I did it in excel, but you could do it on paper), with the same number of rows as my pattern and the same number of columns as I had stitches.   I coloured in cells  (with a lot of trial and error) until it looked right.  I then knew which stitches needed to be red and which were yellow.  The pattern stretched a bit in the actual knitting because my stitches are slightly taller than they are  wide, but it seemed t work out OK.

The real difficulty was in getting it to look nice on the back while carrying the colours across.  I trialled a number of things as I went (with trusty Google  providing me with other knitter’s suggestions), and wasn’t entirely happy with the end result… But I  settled on carrying the colour across the back and picking it up occasionally when there was a big gap to prevent loops behind my work.

 

Mum and bub were exceptionally happy with the final result, even if her colleagues thought I was a bit mad… 🙂